Your Bike’s New Posture Awaits
You’ve been staring at your motorcycle, maybe after a long ride that left your wrists aching, or perhaps you just saw a custom build that sparked an idea. The handlebars feel too high, too low, too far forward, or just plain wrong for the way you want to ride. The desire to change them is a classic rite of passage for riders, a tangible modification that alters the very feel of your machine.
Swapping handlebars is more than a cosmetic upgrade; it’s an ergonomic adjustment that can transform comfort and control. The good news is that with basic tools, patience, and this guide, you can tackle this job yourself in an afternoon. Let’s get your bike fitted to you.
Understanding What You’re Working With
Before you order a shiny new set of bars, you need to know what you’re replacing. Motorcycle handlebars are not one-size-fits-all. The most critical factor is the clamping area diameter. The vast majority of modern street bikes use a 1-inch (25.4mm) diameter at the point where the bars clamp into the top triple tree or risers.
Some cruisers, particularly older or custom models, might use 7/8-inch (22.2mm) bars. Always verify by measuring your current bars with a caliper or a ruler. Getting this wrong means the new bars simply won’t fit in your clamps.
You also need to consider the rise, pullback, and width. Rise is the vertical height from the clamp to the grip area. Pullback is how far the grips come back toward the rider. Width is the total end-to-end measurement. These three dimensions dictate your riding position: a lower, wider bar creates a sportier, leaned-forward stance, while higher pullback bars offer a more upright, cruiser-like posture.
Gathering Your Tools and New Parts
Preparation is key. You’ll need a clean, well-lit workspace and a way to securely prop the front of the bike so the handlebars are free. A front stand or a sturdy box under the engine works. Never rely on the bike’s side stand alone for this job.
Here is your essential tool checklist:
- A set of metric hex keys (Allen wrenches) or sockets.
- A set of combination wrenches (typically 8mm, 10mm, 12mm).
- A torque wrench is highly recommended for safe reassembly.
- A flathead and Phillips screwdriver.
- Painter’s tape and a marker for labeling.
- A container like a magnetic tray for holding small bolts.
- Cable ties.
- Rubbing alcohol and clean rags.
For parts, you obviously need your new handlebars. Additionally, consider if you need new control cables. Lowering the bars significantly might require shorter brake lines, clutch cables, and throttle cables. Raising them often allows you to reuse stock cables, but they must be routed carefully to avoid binding. It’s best to check forums for your specific bike model to see what others have done with similar bar swaps.
The Step-by-Step Removal Process
With the bike secure and the tools laid out, begin the disassembly. The golden rule here is: label everything. Take photos with your phone at each stage. It will be your best friend during reassembly.
Freeing the Controls and Grips
Start by loosening the clamp bolts on the brake lever, clutch lever, and any other switch housing on the bars. You don’t need to remove them completely yet, just enough so they can rotate on the bar. For the throttle grip, you’ll usually find a screw on the throttle housing that clamps it to the bar. Loosen this as well.
If you’re reusing your old grips, you can carefully slip them off after loosening any end-cap screws. A blast of compressed air or a squirt of WD-40 under the grip can help break the bond. If you’re installing new grips, you can cut the old ones off with a utility knife, being extremely careful not to score the metal of the bar.
Disconnecting the Electrical and Cables
Now, carefully unplug the electrical connectors for the switches: the starter button, kill switch, turn signals, and horn. There is usually a plastic connector block. Press the locking tab and pull them apart gently. Use your painter’s tape to label each connector pair (e.g., “Left Switch”).
Next, you need to release the cables. For the throttle, you can usually slide the entire housing assembly off the end of the bar once its clamp is loose. The brake and clutch levers are connected to hydraulic master cylinders or cables. You do not need to disconnect the brake line from the master cylinder. Simply unbolt the master cylinder assembly from the handlebar itself, letting it hang safely by its hose. For a cable-operated clutch, you’ll need to disconnect the cable from the lever end.
Unbolting the Bars Themselves
Finally, you’re ready to remove the bar. Locate the four bolts (two on each side) that hold the handlebar clamp to the top triple tree or the risers. Loosen and remove these bolts completely. Lift the top clamp off. Your handlebars should now be free.
Gently lift the bars up and away from the bike, carefully threading the now-loose wires and cables through the clamp area. Take this opportunity to note how the wires were routed. Set the old bars aside.
Installing and Aligning the New Handlebars
Clean the bar clamp area on your triple tree with rubbing alcohol. Take your new bars and offer them up to the bike. Before tightening anything, sit on the bike and hold the bars in a natural position. Check their alignment by looking from the front; the bars should be perfectly perpendicular to the front wheel.
Once satisfied with the position, place the top clamp over the bars and finger-tighten the four bolts in a criss-cross pattern, just enough to hold the bars in place. Do a final alignment check, then begin to tighten the bolts gradually with your torque wrench to the manufacturer’s specification, which is often found in your bike’s service manual (typically between 15-25 ft-lbs).
Reattaching Controls and Routing Cables
Slide your throttle housing, switch controls, and lever perches onto the new bars in their approximate positions. Before tightening them down, you must check for cable and hose clearance. Turn the handlebars lock-to-lock, from full left to full right. Watch the brake hose and any cables carefully.
They must not pull taut, kink, or snag on any part of the bike. This is the most critical safety check. You may need to reroute wires or adjust the position of control units to ensure full, free movement. Once clearance is confirmed, you can tighten the control clamps.
Reconnection and Final Adjustments
Reconnect all the electrical connectors you labeled, ensuring each click is secure. Reconnect the clutch cable if you detached it. Reinstall the grips. New grips often require a little grip glue or hairspray to slide on and stay put.
Now, sit on the bike again. Adjust the angle of the brake and clutch levers so your wrists are in a neutral, comfortable position when reaching for them. Tighten all lever clamp bolts securely. Double-check that every bolt you touched during the process is properly tightened.
The Moment of Truth: Testing and Troubleshooting
Before riding, perform a thorough static test. Squeeze the brake lever firmly—it should feel solid with no sponginess, indicating no air was introduced into the line. Pull the clutch lever. Check that the throttle snaps back closed smoothly and quickly when released. Test all switches: lights, horn, turn signals, and starter.
Common issues include a throttle that sticks, which is usually due to a pinched cable or housing. A spongy brake lever may require a quick brake bleed. If the bars feel off-center, loosen the clamp bolts slightly, center them, and retorque.
Riding Into Your New Setup
Take your first ride in a safe, open area like a parking lot. Get a feel for the new riding position. Do your arms feel more relaxed? Is the steering input quicker or slower? Be aware that changing handlebar geometry can subtly affect steering characteristics.
After a short ride, stop and visually inspect everything again, looking for any signs of movement or interference. It’s normal for a few minor adjustments to be needed after the initial test.
Changing your handlebars is a profoundly satisfying project. It connects you more deeply to your motorcycle’s mechanics and tailors the machine to your body. By following these steps methodically, prioritizing cable routing safety, and double-checking your work, you’ve not only changed a part but upgraded your entire riding experience. Now, those long stretches of road ahead look a little more comfortable, don’t they?
